Ensuring your ground is in excellent condition all-year round is hugely important as it not only makes things easier come the point of pre-season preparations or end of season renovations, but over time it will ensure you ground is able to withstand the ups and downs of the UK climate with ease.
Due to the seasonality involved with many sports, our main playing facilities can often be over looked and only tended to 6-7 months of the year.
Our calendar guide is designed to make it easier for you to maintain your ground all year-round.*
You can also download our 12 Month Bowling Green Preparation Guide here.
*Our guide is a recommendation only. Application or mis-use of products is the individuals responsibility. Battersby take no responsibility for actions taken as a result of using this guide. If in doubt, consult Battersby prior to application.
Any operations in this month are completely dependent on the weather and ground conditions. The most likely disease problems will be either Fusarium Patch or Anthracnose, sometimes referred to as basal rot. If there has been snow, you may end up with snow mould.
Fusarium should be treated with the appropriate fungicide such as Fusion, Dedicate, Exteris, Eland.
Anthracnose is quite often caused through a prolonged wet surface conditions.
Aeration is vital in conjunction with the application of absorbent granules such as Profile Greens Grade.
If frost is not forecast and growth is weak apply some nutrition. Ideally, a ratio of 1-1-2 +Fe; a great example is 5-5-10 + Fe. Mascot AW2.
It is always good practise to remove dew from the turf each morning breaking the surface tension of the water helping reduce likely fungal issues that arise from prolonged wet surface conditions.
Similarly, to January – In the UK, the climate varies so if you are based in the south of England there are relatively warm spells in February, take advantage of them.
Aerate if possible using solid tines, either slitting or round.
Apply small amounts of nutrition with a 1-0.5-2 ratio or similar, an example is 6-0-12 Mascot Four Seasons.
If applying iron, it is preferable to use this in a chelated form such as Mascot Magnet Velocite .
If necessary control worms using ENHANCE C. If there is any growth mow the turf with the machine set at approximately 12mm.
Depending on your location the turf can start to grow during March. Aeration is important using slitting or round solid tines. If the temperature is around 10°C during the day and severe frost is not forecast at night, it is a good time to apply spring fertilizer ratio 3-1-2 or similar such as Mascot Fine Turf12-0-9.
The grass will be weak after the winter and the sooner it can be helped to grow the sooner the surface of the turf will be good for play.
If necessary control worms using a soil conditioner such as; ENHANCE C
Mow the turf with the machine set at 12mm. Start to apply wetting agent.
Check irrigation systems whilst there is still time before the start of the playing season.
It if has not already begun the turf should start to grow in April. Mow the green with a machine set at 5 or 6mm depending on the strength of the turf.
Spring fertilizer should be applied if not already done so in March. Before spreading any fertilizer it is very beneficial to aerate the turf.
If a club doesn’t have their own equipment it can usually be hired, just speak to a member of the Battersby Team here.
By the end of April the turf may be strong enough to verticut, this will improve the speed of the green without cutting below 4.5mm.
If there is still worm activity apply RT Clearcast Green at the rate of 20 l/ha followed by 7 to 10 l/ha four weeks later.
Continue to apply wetting agent such as...INSERT HERE
Soil microbes can be stimulated by applying carbohydrate products, such as Mascot Activate XL.
The mower should now be set at 4.5mm but not lower. Mowing below this height on a traditional sward will bring many problems later in the season.
Mow the green three times a week. If the playing surface is not fast enough use the verticutters to improve the roll of the ball or bowls.
Areas renovated in March/April should not be heavily scarified at this time of year, because new grasses which are just establishing may be torn out.
If fertilizer was applied in early March maybe a further application is required. If the grass is growing but lacking colour apply chelated iron such as Magnet Velocite mixed with amino acid such as Amino Form.
Long daylight hours mean lots of play on the turf. It is advisable not to set the mower below 4.5mm. Between 4 – 6mm will be the optimum during June.
Mow the green four or five times a week. In the height of season it is advisable that any fertilizer applied should be in liquid form.
There is a range of analyses under the Mascot Microflowlabel. These can be mixed with other products such as Breaker wetting agentand Amino Formamino acid.
Both these are helpful if the turf is under stress for any reason. If the turf is thick use the verticutters, aeration with a pencil tine is recommended.
Any localised Dry Patch may appear at this time of year, but bear in mind a poorly established root system will often show similar symptoms.
Operations in July are very similar to June. Fertilizer should be in liquid form and mixed with other things when required. Fertilizers should not be applied if the surface is too dry.
Because clubs will be looking to increase the speed of the green at the height of the season, consider raising the height of cut, even by only 1 or 2mm, to help grass recover from a any dry spells. Continue to apply wetting agent such as Breaker, as a preventative against Dry Patch.
Spiking from 25 -50mm deep with a sarel type spike roller can give successful results and help firm up the surface.
In wet conditions disease can become a problem in August. If a particular site is prone to fungal disease it may be helpful to apply a preventative fungicide.
It is quite common for dew to be heavy in the morning – always brush this off with the appropriate equipment.
Carry on mowing at around 5mm during August.
Before an important match, if weather permits, aerate and irrigate the green before double cutting for good speed on the surface.
Towards the end of August it may be a good time to apply autumn fertilizer. The ratio should be similar to 1-0-2 an example is 6-0-12 Four Seasons.
This is an important month for maintenance of fine turf. Operations carried out now will help the quality of greens the following spring.
When play has finished the bowling green should be scarified. Follow this with either hollow coring or deep slit tining in two directions. This is the season of root growth and slits made mechanically will allow roots to develop deeper into the rootzone. Afterwards, topdress with 70:30 sand:soil graded material.
After this, overseed to restore healthy sward and apply a fertilizer in preparation for the autumn.
As daylight decreases fungal attack becomes more likely. Ultra violet light kills disease so there is a connection between hours of daylight and fungal activity.
Shade from trees can also increase the risk as well as encouraging moss. Clear leaves off the green as often as possible.
If your club continues playing bowls into October, the operations described for September should carried out as soon as play finishes.
Remember as the daylight reduces be vigilant in your inspection for fungal disease. You can now use fungicides which stay in the leaf because of reduced mowing.
Remove the dew each morning and raise the height of cut to 5-6mm. Applications of chelated ironcan be helpful to harden the turf against disease.
Autumn leaves falling on the green will be problematic if not removed, so brush off these and any other bits of debris to keep the surface clean.
Very low daylight so disease pressure is at its highest. There are several fungicides which can be used.
The translaminar strobilurin Fungicide Eland is suitable for this period.
Remove the dew each morning and aerate with slitting or round solid tines. To help with stress caused by low daylight, apply amino acid liquid and chelated iron mixed with small amount of Microflow. Continue to brush leaves and debris off the green
If you have any questions on the above, please do not hesitate to contact us here.